Day One 16th Century Stays

Having chosen Simplicity pattern 2621 for my first attempt at new stays I proceeded to measure myself and cut out the appropriate size. I always trace my patterns onto painters plastic first thing. I do this extra step for a couple of reasons, one the plastic is much more durable than paper so I can pin it and fold it without destroying it. Also because then I can just make my size without actually cutting into the pattern which allows me to use the pattern later or loan it to friends.

Traced pieces that are difficult to see, but here it is. The pattern itself is fairly basic, only 3 pieces. Front cut on a fold, side and back, then the tabs. This is where I had to veer from the pattern itself. The pattern has you cut the tabs separately then attach at the waist. I really debated with myself on this because I wanted to be faithful to the pattern but I know that to hold the weight of the skirt I will be making, the tabs will need to be strong and a seam line right at the waist sounds very uncomfortable. And so I used my trusty plastic and sharpy and redrew the tabs so they are part of the pattern pieces as a whole.

Next I cut the mock up out of canvas.

Here is the front view.

Back view with the boning guides transferred to the fabric. I extended them down into the tabs. Obviously there will be a lot more boning, these are just the guides to get one started.

So far it seems that this will give the appropriate shape for the rest of the outfit, the fit is good, taking into consideration that boning will change the way it fits. Next I will complete the mock up, make any changes that I need to the pattern and then start cutting into some fantastic silk.